Our first stop in South Dakota, through the Black Hills is Crazy Horse Memorial, 17 miles from Mount Rushmore. When and if it is completed it will be the largest sculpture in the world at 563 ft. high and 641 ft. long. Sculptor Korczak Ziolkowski won first prize, by popular vote, at the 1939 New York World’s Fair. This brought him attention from Lakota Chief Henry Standing Bear. He wrote, “My fellow chiefs and I wanted the white man to know that the red man has great heroes also.” Ziolkowski started blasting the mountain in 1948.
The size of this work in progress is staggering. In the great distance, I can see the face of the Sioux warrior, Crazy Horse in profile. Also visible is the hole that represents the space between the figure’s arm and the top of the horse’s neck. Seeing the stone model helps visitors to visualize the finished sculpture. At this time there is little opportunity to explore the sculpture by walking around the base.
We pull into the upper deck parking area for Mount Rushmore and there they are. In magnitude, in strong southeast light casting shadows describes the chiseled planes of each figure’s face. (But why can’t we climb around the sculpture like Cary Grant in North by Northwest, 1959)? This massive project was the dream of state historian, Doane Robinson who initially wanted sculptor Gutzon Borglum to carve western heroes. But Borglum thought national heroes might be a bigger draw for tourists. Borglum selected the sight for its height, direct sunlight, and consistency of the granite. While visiting his studio at the site, I look at an enormous plaster model. The model included more of the figure’s bodies, arms, and hands. The rock formation made it impossible for Borglum to realize this idea. I wonder how different Mount Rushmore might have looked if he had. The only figure that has some semblance of a body is George Washington. The outline of his lapel is clearly seen. I like the rough texture of the upper body made to look like hand chiseling but probably done with a jackhammer. 400 men worked on for 14 years starting in 1927. One of the most intriguing facts for me about the site is that Borglum calculated that the granite would erode 1” every 10,000 years so he added 3” to the figures features. In effect, the work will be completed in 30,000 years.
Visiting both of these sites contrasted sharply with visiting Land Art or Earthworks sites. At Double Negative, Sun Tunnels, Spiral Jetty we encountered no other visitors. We were able to have personal, individual experiences walking in and around the environments at our own pace. The experience at Crazy Horse Memorial and Mount Rushmore was highly controlled and a very commercial enterprise.
Sadly, this is the last site report of the American Land Art Tour. Thanks for following the great adventure. Happy Trails!
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